PARIS (AP) — Paris couture week opened not with sequins or red carpet pageantry, but with a black-feathered omen. Cardi B, wrapped in a custom Schiaparelli gown of graphic fringe, stood beneath the gilded columns of the Petit Palais, holding a live crow on her arm. The bird squawked, glared, and nearly lunged — setting the tone for a show that soared straight into the surreal.
It was a fitting image for Schiaparelli. Elsa Schiaparelli, the house’s founder, built her legend in the 1930s by weaving the unexpected —l obster dresses, shoe hats, and, yes, animals — into the heart of high fashion. That legacy pulsed through Daniel Roseberry’s Fall 2025 collection, a spectacle in pure black and white, staged as if the city itself had been drained of color, leaving only stark contrast and raw emotion.
Inside, the mood was cinematic — sharp tailoring, sweeping gowns, hints of disco sheen flickering like film across the runway. But if the house has been criticized in the past for relying on extreme corsetry and body manipulation, this season marked a shift. Roseberry, perhaps heeding the critics, abandoned his signature corset silhouette. In its place: a freer, more elastic exploration of the body, echoing Schiaparelli’s own restless spirit.
Schiaparelli helped create the mold
Roseberry said the collection was inspired by the moment in 1940, when Elsa Schiaparelli fled Nazi-occupied Paris for New York — a period “when life and art was on the precipice: to the sunset of elegance, and to the end of the world as we knew it.”
Here, that tension was alive in every look: archival codes reimagined, but with a restless push toward the future. Dresses undulated like car bodies, hips arced in impossibly engineered shapes, ribbons from antique Lyon couture fluttered as kinetic sculptures.
Yet the show was more than spectacle. This was couture at its most essential — an ideas factory for the entire fashion industry, unfettered by trends.
“Chanel was interested in how clothes could be of practical use to women; Elsa was interested in what fashion could be,” Roseberry added.
It is this what-if energy, the transformation of memory, myth, and sheer technique into something never seen before, that keeps couture vital, even as the world rushes toward AI and disposable fast fashion.
The origins of couture
The setting only heightened the effect. The Petit Palais is currently home to an exhibit on Charles Worth, the 19th-century Englishman who invented haute couture by bringing artistry and handcraft to Paris. The symmetry was irresistible: in these halls, Schiaparelli’s past collided with fashion’s future, reminding all why couture matters: not as museum piece, but as living laboratory for risk, reinvention, and radical beauty.
A decade after its relaunch, Schiaparelli has found commercial traction and become a fixture on the world’s red carpets, a rare feat in today’s luxury market. But above all, the brand’s power lies in its ability to surprise. On opening day, as Cardi B’s crow threatened to take flight, Schiaparelli proved that in Paris, fashion’s most potent magic is still the unexpected.
