VIENNA (AP) — The aristocrats of the Habsburg royal court who danced in the first of Vienna ’s famed balls in the 18th century could never have imagined how the hallmark of the Austrian capital’s social and cultural scene would evolve.
Today, teenagers learn to waltz by watching YouTube videos while ladies shed their elbow-length gloves to better swipe on smartphones.
More than 450 balls occur annually in Vienna, starting Nov. 11 to mark the opening of the carnival season to Ash Wednesday before Lent begins. Professional guilds throughout the city host their own events, like the Ball of the Viennese Chimney Sweeps that marks the opening of the season.
The sparkling balls are deeply rooted in Viennese culture, blending history with modern glamour, and the waltz remains an essential part. While the average ticket costs 395 euros ($427) — though VIP boxes at the Opera Ball can go for 25,500 euros ($27,539) — other events have lowered their prices to 40 euros ($43) to attract a wider audience.
“To be a part of this for me, as an Austrian person, is like taking part in Viennese culture,” Leander Selmani, 19, said. “I was watching all these ball openings on YouTube and I said ‘I want to be part of that.’”
‘Let the waltz begin!’
Besides YouTube, teens must learn the carefully choreographed dances for each ball’s opening ceremony from places like the Elmayer Dance School, which has been training dancers since 1919. In order to participate in an opening ceremony, dancers must first qualify through a strict regimen. Then they attend multiple lessons at a dance school and receive a stamped certificate of completion after each session.
The opening ceremonies can last two to three hours, featuring opera performances, speeches and the traditional debutantes grand opening dance. Guests gather shoulder to shoulder, eager to catch a glimpse of the spectacle.
Only once “Alles Walzer!” (“Let the waltz begin!”) has been declared can the rest of the crowd join in the dancing. This year, many balls honored the 200th anniversary of the birth of Viennese composer and violinist Johann Strauss II, known as the “waltz king.”
Strict dress code
While the waltz, the quadrille and other traditional dances are the heart of the Viennese balls, modern events now offer a diverse range of music and entertainment. Most venues feature multiple halls where guests can dance to various styles, including disco and contemporary beats.
Still, not everyone is a fan of updating the music to the 21st century.
“I’m an old-fashioned guy who doesn’t like the change of the balls,” Selmani said. “With a lot of change you might lose the cultural meaning behind it.”
Dress codes, however, have remained strictly enforced for centuries: gentlemen are required to wear tailcoats or tuxedos, and ladies must don evening gowns. Many attendees rent their attire from Lambert Hofer, a renowned costume workshop founded in 1862 that rents out hundreds of gowns each year.
For many Austrians, a ball ends not on the dance floor but on the street at one of Vienna’s famous sausage stands. Once again, those elbow-length gloves must come off — this time, to eat.
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Associated Press journalist Stefanie Dazio in Berlin contributed to this report.
