There always seems to be someone on TikTok, YouTube or Instagram showing you a multistep skincare routine they swear by. They might use expensive products like snail mucin or red-light therapy masks that allegedly hydrate your skin or help reduce fine lines.
Is any of it necessary? Does any of it work?
“Social media is having such a huge influence on what we’re using in our skin and every individual is acting like their own clinician and trying to diagnose their own skin type and experiment with different regimens,” said Dr. Kathleen Suozzi, a professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine. “And really the main overarching thing is that skincare regimens have become way overcomplicated.”
Some dermatologists say that many viral skincare products are unnecessary, even if they feel nice, and while some cause little to no harm, other treatments can cause more problems than they fix.
Face skin requires extra protection
The skin on our face is thinner than the skin on our bodies, and requires a gentler touch than other parts of the body.
Everyone’s skin is different, too: The soaps or cleansers that work for someone with oily skin may not satisfy someone with dry skin.
Dermatologists say a skincare routine should start with three things — a gentle cleanser, a moisturizer to hydrate the face and a sunscreen with at least SPF 30. Too many products can irritate sensitive skin and be redundant, since many products share the same ingredients.
This article is part of AP’s Be Well coverage, focusing on wellness, fitness, diet and mental health. Read more Be Well.
In all cases, protecting your face from the sun is key, dermatologists said.
“The truth of the matter is, nine out of 10 skin care concerns on the face that people come to see me for are worsened by UV radiation from the sun,” said Dr. Oyetewa Asempa, the director of the Skin of Color clinic at Baylor College of Medicine.
Many skin issues, like wrinkles, dark pigmentation after a rash and dark scarring from acne, are made worse by the sun, she said.
What to know about retinol and exfoliation products
Wrinkles happen. And your skin over time can look less plump and glowing.
Retinol creams and chemical exfoliants are sold with the promise of keeping aging at bay. Some are recommended by dermatologists — but there are also some exceptions.
As we get older, our skin slows down its production of collagen, which keeps our skin bouncy and elastic. That leads to wrinkles. Retinoids and retinol creams can help, dermatologists said. But they recommend not using them until you are about 30 or older — any earlier could cause more problems, like skin irritation.
Dark spots and dead skin are also common skincare frustrations.
Exfoliation — removing dead skin — can help. But dermatologists recommend avoiding products that use beads, salts and sugars that exfoliate fragile facial skin by physically removing it. Instead, try chemical exfoliation with alpha-hydroxy acids or beta-hydroxy acids — but make sure you’re wearing sunscreen if you add either of these ingredients to your skincare regimen.
FDA-approved guidelines say chemical exfoliation is safe if certain ingredient levels are declared on retail products, but the requirements don’t apply to the more intense chemical peels applied by professionals, for example in salons.
What skin products to avoid
Influencers try to get you excited by trendy skincare ideas — and dermatologists want them to go away.
Dr. Asempa points to one currently popular example: beef tallow — also known as cow fat.
“I want you to leave the beef tallow with the cows,” she said.
Light therapy masks are also wildly popular — and also wildly over-hyped. Dermatologists say they can be useful in some situations, depending on the color you use and the strength of the masks.
Dr. Suozzi said that while research shows there may be some benefit to red-light therapy masks, which may help with collagen production, they are “not something that’s going to be transformative” for the skin.
And to have any hope, you’d need to use them a lot: “You need to be using these devices a few times a week for them to have any benefit, if at all.”
More expensive skin products don’t necessarily work better
Red-light therapy masks, snail mucin — slimy liquid that is touted as hydrating — and other products can be very expensive. But don’t let the price fool you, said Dr. Jordan Lim, a dermatology professor at Emory University School of Medicine.
“Price does not equal efficacy, and it does not equal better results,” Lim said. “A lot of the ingredients you’re seeing in a $6 cream are also in a $20 cream, also in that $300 cream that you see a celebrity using.”
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